Air leaks around windows and doors are one of the biggest energy wasters in Texas homes. A $6 tube of caulk and an hour of work can make a noticeable difference on your electric bill. Here's how to do it right.
Not all caulk is the same. For exterior windows and doors, use a paintable silicone-latex blend (sometimes called siliconized acrylic). It's flexible enough to handle Texas temperature swings, paintable, and holds up to UV exposure. Pure silicone is more durable but harder to paint. Avoid cheap latex caulk for exterior use — it cracks within a year in Texas heat.
New caulk over old caulk doesn't bond well and looks terrible. Use a caulk remover tool or a utility knife to cut and peel away the old bead. A plastic scraper helps clean up residue without scratching the trim. For stubborn silicone, a caulk softener product (available at hardware stores) makes removal much easier. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely before applying new caulk.
Cut the caulk tube tip at a 45-degree angle. The opening size determines the bead size — start smaller than you think you need. A 1/8-inch opening is right for most window and door gaps. Puncture the inner seal with a long nail or the puncture tool on your caulk gun.
Hold the gun at a 45-degree angle to the gap and move at a steady pace — not too fast, not too slow. Apply consistent pressure on the trigger. The goal is a continuous bead that fills the gap without excess. Work from one end to the other without stopping if possible.
Within a few minutes of application, smooth the bead with a wet finger or a caulk tool. This presses the caulk into the gap and creates a clean, concave profile. Wipe excess caulk with a damp cloth immediately — once it skins over, it's much harder to clean up.
Need a full weatherization check on your home? We inspect and re-caulk windows, doors, and exterior penetrations. Call (214) 872-7785.
Call (214) 872-7785